「JAMIESON'S」フェアアイルがスタイルになった理由

"JAMIESON'S" Why Fair Isle became a style


This time we'll be looking at the Fair Isle sweater from JAMIESON'S, which is also available at Anatomica.

I would like to delve a little deeper into the objects and their background.

This will be a bit long, but please bear with me.

 

When people hear the term Fair Isle knitwear, many may think of words like "traditional patterns," "decorative," and "quintessentially British."

However, Fair Isle was not originally created as a design .
It was born in a certain place, time, and lifestyle.
It can be said to be an extremely rational form of clothing.

Victorian era background

19th century England, Victorian period (1837-1901)
The Industrial Revolution, which began in 1760, matured, and clothing went from being for the privileged class to a necessity for the common people .

While mass production in factories is progressing in cities,
In remote areas such as northern Scotland and the Shetland Islands,
The handmade knitting culture continued to support life.

The climate of the Shetland Islands is characterized by cold, windy and damp weather.
What was required in the harsh natural environment was not fashion or decoration, but clothing for life .

Why "Fair Isle"?

At first glance, plain colors seem easier.
It is true that this is the case if we only look at the knitting process, but in reality, Fair Isle patterns were suited to the lifestyles of that region.

The thread crossover on the back side created by multi-color knitting
The knitted fabric traps air, providing excellent heat retention .
Furthermore, hand-spun yarns with uneven color and thickness are also naturally absorbed into the pattern.

Repair marks are less noticeable, they can combine and use leftover yarn.
Fair Isle was also a wisdom in making the most of limited resources .

*Of course, the patterns also seem to indicate the region, family background, and knitter, but since I would like to focus on the practical aspects of everyday life this time, I will limit it to this.

About color scheme

Fair Isle colours are not just about being flashy.

  • The color of the sheep's wool: off-white, gray, brown, etc.

  • Dull blues and reddish browns that can only be produced using plant dyes

  • A clear contrast between light and dark colors

All of these are

  • Limitations of dyeing techniques

  • Visibility on cloudy days or in dimly lit rooms

  • Yarn inventory

It was born from a combination of living conditions .

As a result, what remained was Fair Isle sweaters with many colors but calm impressions.

Sublimation into "Style"

In the early 20th century,
This "knitwear for the common people" is at a major turning point.

The Prince of Wales, who was known as a fashionista and eccentric, and later King Edward VIII , wore a Fair Isle sweater as his private clothing during his stay in Scotland.

The top image is from that time. It's a famous photo.

it is,

  • Not clothes made for royalty

  • It is not a place of ceremony.

  • Just as natural everyday wear

It was something that could be worn.

At this moment, Fair Isle went from being "clothes for living on a cold island" to a symbol of British casual style .

JAMIESON'S of SHETLAND

JAMIESON'S was founded in 1893.
The late Victorian era,
This was the time when the Industrial Revolution came of age.

But they did not choose the path of prioritizing mass production and efficiency.

  • Using island wool

  • Spinning on the island

  • Incorporating island culture directly into knitwear

JAMIESON'S Fair Isle preserves tradition and continues to create the perfected form in the name of life. 

Affinity with ANATOMICA

Now, finally, ANATOMICA appears. This has gotten a little long.


I mentioned that the Prince of Wales at the time elevated it to a style, but he was known for hating formal wear and breaking existing dress codes.

It seems that he also wore knitwear while playing golf, which was not common at the time.

However, personally, I feel it would be more accurate to say that they didn't just break the rules, but rather successfully integrated them.

As mentioned above, the color scheme of Fair Isle sweaters is a slightly dull color derived from nature.

I feel that this color scheme is a natural match for traditional British tweed and flannel (beige, brown, gray, olive, etc.).

 

Similarly, ANATOMICA values "original" and "vintage."

This is especially true for items that are rooted in daily life and are designed to be used.

Pierre, the designer , continues to wear his clothes for a long time with repairs.

In terms of style, it also pairs well with standard colors and earth tones, which is very ANATOMICA-esque.

The two aspects of "products" and "style" are the reasons why ANATOMICA chooses JAMIESON'S.

The Fair Isle pattern, which originated in the Shetland Islands, is more than just decorative.
The colour schemes and patterns are all there for a reason.

it is,

  • harsh natural environment

  • Limited resources

  • the lives of ordinary people

  • And time

It is an inevitable form that has been refined by.

It will surely fit into our modern lifestyles.

When you hear the word Fair Isle, some people may imagine it as clothing from one or two generations ago.

I would be happy if by digging deeper into the background I can shake up those stereotypes even a little.

Of course, this isn't entirely correct.

We hope you will find this to be one of the charms of ANATOMICA, a brand that pays homage to the original.

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